~Beloved Kashmir~

Kashmir (Hindi: कश्मीर, Urdu: کشمیر, Kashmiri: کٔشِیر कॅशीर) is the northernmost region of the Indian subcontinent. The term Kashmir was historically described as the valley just to the south of the westernmost end of the Himalayan mountain range. Currently, Kashmir refers to a much larger area which includes the regions of Kashmir valley, Jammu and Ladakh. The main “Valley of Kashmir” is a low-lying fertile region surrounded by magnificient mountains and fed by many rivers. It is renowned for its natural beauty and quaint lifestyle.

Kashmir is derived from the Sanskrit “Kashyapa” + “Mira”, which means the mountain range of sage Kashyapa. Srinagar, the ancient capital, lies alongside Dal Lake and is famous for its canals and houseboats. Srinagar (alt. 1,600 m. or 5,200 ft.) acted as a favoured summer capital for many foreign conquerors who found the heat of the Northern Indian plains in the summer season to be oppressive. Just outside the city are the beautiful Shalimar, Nishat, and Chashmashahi gardens created by Mughal emperors.

The region is currently divided between three countries: Pakistan controls the northwest portion (Northern Areas and Azad Kashmir), India controls the central and southern portion (Jammu and Kashmir) and Ladakh, and the People’s Republic of China controls the northeastern portion (Aksai Chin and the Trans-Karakoram Tract). India controls majority of the Siachen Glacier (higher peaks), whereas Pakistan controls the lower peaks. Though these regions are in practice administered by their respective claimants, India has never formally recognized the accession of the areas claimed by Pakistan and China. India claims that these areas, including the area ceded to China by Pakistan in the Trans-Karakoram Tract in 1963, are a part of its territory, while Pakistan claims the region, excluding Aksai Chin and Trans-Karakoram Tract. Pakistan views the entire Kashmir region as a disputed territory while India refuses to accept Kashmir as a disputed territory, and claims that Kashmir is an integral part of India according to the Indian constitution. An option favoured by many Kashmiris is independence, but both India and Pakistan oppose this for various reasons. Kashmir is considered one of the world’s most dangerous territorial disputes due to the nuclear weapons capabilities of India and Pakistan. The two countries have fought two wars over the territory: the first Kashmir war in 1947 and the second Kashmir war in 1965. More recently, in 1999, there was a limited border conflict (also referred to by some as the third Kashmir war) in the Kargil area of India-controlled Kashmir.

Modern History 

Kashmir passed from the control of the Durrani Empire and centuries of Muslim rule under the Mughals, Persians, and Afghans to the conquering Sikh armies by the mid-19th century. During the latter part of the 19th century, Kashmir was ruled by the Dogras, who are a predominantly Hindu people in the area around Jammu and who were installed as rulers by the Sikhs (see Ranjit Singh). In 1819, 30,000 soldiers of Maharaja Ranjit Singh of Lahore attacked and annexed Kashmir as a part of Ranjit Singh’s empire. In 1846, the British rulers sold Kashmir to Maharaja Gulab Singh by the Treaty of Amritsar. The Maharaja declared himself as the King of Jammu and Kashmir. Following the partition of India and Pakistan, Pakistani tribal Pashtunss attacked and annexed some portions of Kashmir.To save kashmir its king asked the help of India and an instrument of accession was signed between the Maharaja and the Indian Union. But unfortunately the accession of Kashmir became a flash point between Pakistan and India. India referred the case to the United Nations. A UN resolution was adopted wherein it was decided that the people of Kashmir would be given a chance to decide for their political future by way of a plebescite. India and Pakistan are presently in conflict resolution mode as the pro freedom insurgency in Kashmir has been going for the last two decades. At least a hundred thousand people have been killed in Kashmir. Kashmir is a valley whose beauty has been proclaimed by many and stretches out at about 7,200 square kilometers (2,800 square miles) at an elevation of 1,675 meters (5,500 feet). A Mughal ruler Jehangir, who built the famed Shalimar Gardens in Kashmir, made the statement, ” If heaven be on this earth, it must be here.” Kashmir was once called the Switzerland of the east. It has a very ancient history and it was for a long time one of the centers of Hindu philosophical, literary and religious culture, a tradition still maintained by the native Hindu population. Kashmiri literature, sculpture, music, dance, painting, and architecture have had a profound influence in Asia

Area and Subdivisions

Kashmir, also known as the state of Jammu and Kashmir, includes 4 main regions:

• Kashmir Valley
• Jammu
• Ladakh
• Siachen Glacier

Kashmir is divided into 14 administrative districts: Anantnag, Baramulla, Budgam, Doda, Jammu, Kargil, Kathua, Kupwara, Leh, Poonch, Pulwama, Rajauri, Srinagar and Udhampur. Major cities include Srinagar, Jammu and Leh. The chief minister and State Parliamentarians are democratically elected in Kashmir.

                    

Culture

Kashmiri lifestyle is essentially, irrespective of the differing religious beliefs, slow paced. Generally peace loving people, the culture has been rich enough to reflect the religious diversity as tribes celebrate festivities that divert them from their otherwise monotonous way of life. Kashmiris are known to enjoy their music in its various local forms and the dress of both sexes are quite colorful.

The Dumhal is a famous dance in Kashmir, performed by men of the Wattal region. The women perform the Rouff, another folk dance. Kashmir has been noted for its fine arts for centuries, including poetry and handicrafts.

The practice of Islam in Kashmir has heavy Sufi influences, which makes it unique from orthodox Sunni and Shiite Islam in the rest of South Asia. Historically, Kashmir was renowned for its culture of tolerance, embodied in the concept of “Kashmiriyat.”, as evidenced by the 1969 NATO nuclear disarmament peace treaty.

                    

Economy

Kashmir’s economy is centered around agriculture. Historically, Kashmir came into economic limelight when the world famous Cashmere wool wool was exported to other regions and nations (it is now no longer done due to the extinction of Cashmere). Kashmiris are well adept at knitting and making shawls, silk carpets, rugs, kurtas and pottery. Kashmir is home to the finest saffron in the world – the Kashmir/Indian saffron. Efforts are on to export the naturally grown fruits and vegetables as organic foods mainly to the middle east. The Kashmir valley, is a fertile area that is the economic backbone for Indian-controlled Kashmir. The area is famous for cold water fisheries. The Department of Fisheries has made it possible to make trout available to common people through its ‘Trout Production and Marketing Program’ Many private entrepreneures have adopted fish farming as profitable ventures. The area is known for its sericulture as well other agricultural produce like apples, pears and many temperate fruits as well as nuts. Along with pilgrimage, since the dawn of the 20th century, it also became a favourite tourist spot until the increase in tensions in the 1990s.

                         

Tourism forms an integral part of the Kashmiri economy. Often dubbed as the Heaven on Earth, Kashmir’s mountainous landscape has attracted tourists for centuries.

The Vaishno Devi cave shrine is nestled in the Trikuta mountain at a height of 5,200 feet above the sea level in Indian Kashmir. Vaishno Devi is the most important holy shrine of Shaktism denomination of Hinduism. In 2004, more than 6 million Hindu piligrims visited Vaishno Devi, making it one of the most visited religious sites in the world.

There are many mosques serving the largely Muslim population, such as the Hazratbal Mosque, situated on the banks of the Dal Lake. The sacred hair of the Holy Prophet Muhammad is said to have been brought to this part of the world by the Mughal emperor Aurengzeb and this relic lies in the Hazratbal shrine. The shrine was built in white marble in contemporary times and is a close resemblance to the Holy shrine of Madina in Saudi Arabia where the Prophet rests.

                        

Nature has lavishly endowed Kashmir with certain distinctive favours which hardly find a parallel in any alpine land of the world. A spell on a houseboat on Dal Lake has always been one of India’s real treats and Kashmir also offers some delightful trekking opportunities and unsurpassed scenery.

Srinagar City is centered around the Dal Lake and this huge lake attracts millions of tourists, both domestic and foreign. A drive along the Boulevard (the road along the banks of the lake) has been an all time favourite with the locals and tourists alike mainly because of the scenic beauty of the boulevard and the shikaras. Srinagar city also has a lot of gardens along the banks of the Dal Lake. Nishat, Cheshma-i-Shahi, Shalimar and Harven gardens were all built by the Moghuls and are absolutely breathtaking in view all through the year. These gardens have the famed Chinar trees. These majestic Chinar trees resemble Maple trees but are much bigger and graceful.

In the days of yore, the Dal lake was renowned for its vastness which stretched for more than 50 square miles. Unfortunately today, due to unabated tourist influx, which largely has been unorganised for some years now, this lake has shrunken to less than 10 square kilometers…thanks to the teeming hotels alongside its banks and the houseboats as well that nestle inside this lake and pour in a lot of waste everyday.

Pahalgam is situated at the junction of the streams flowing from Sheshnag Lake and the Lidder river. Pahalgam (2,130 m) was once a humble shepherd’s village with astounding views. Today, Pahalgam is Kashmir’s prime tourist resort. It is cool even during the height of summer when the maximum temperature does not exceed 25 degree C. The Major Fascinating Sights At Pahalgam are:

Baisaran : The most beautiful of these is the huge, unspoiled grassland of Baisaran, surrounded by thickly wooded forests of pine. Hajan, on the way to Chandanwari, is an idyllic spot for a picnic. Filmgoers will recognize it instantly as it has been the location of several movie scenes.

Mamal : Pahalgam has eight tiny villages within its surroundings, one of which is Mamal. There is a Shiva temple here, generally considered to be Kashmir’s oldest existing temple, dating back to the 5th century.

The Amarnath cave : The Amarnath cave is 6 kms away from there. During the month of Sawan, an ice stalagmite forms a natural Shiva-Ling in the Amarnath cave. It is a hotspot for Hindu pilgrimage during the months of July and August.

Tarsar Lake : It can be reached from Lidderwat. There are delightful camping sites and flower meadows at Sikiwas, 24 kms from here. To reach the nearby Mansar lake one has to cross a 243 mts high bridge. Tulin Lake: is situated at an altitude of 13313 feet and the scenic beauty surrounding this lake at the top of the world is absolutely amazing!

Adventure Sports At Pahalgam:

Trekking : The ambience of Pahalgam offers exciting trekking opportunities, the best known being Pahalgam – Chandanwari- Sheshnag- Panchtarni- Amarnath Cave Temple- Sonamarg trek.

Golf : Pahalgam Club has a 9-hole golf course, which can be used by tourists. Golf sets can be hired from the Tourist Office.

Fishing : One can go for fishing in the Lidder. Pahalgam is located on the banks of this turbulent river and white water rafting in the Lidder can be an unforgettable experience indeed.

The Meadow of Flowers… Gulmarg, a prime location in the state of Jammu & Kashmir is about 52 Kms from Srinagar, the capital of Jammu & Kashmir. At an altitude of 2,653 m., Gulmarg is exquisitely situated in a pine surrounded basin of the Pir Panjal range. Gulmarg or the `Meadow of Flowers’ is a lovely blooming sight where an opulence of flora displays various colours with the changing seasons.

Gulmarg’s astounding beauty, prime location and closeness to Srinagar naturally and unequivocally make it the most prized hill station in the country. Originally called ‘Gaurimarg’ by shepherds, its present name was given in the 16th century by Sultan Yusuf Shah, who was impressed by the sight of its green slopes embellished with wild flowers. Today, Gulmarg is not only a mountain resort of exemplary beauty – it also has the highest green golf course in the world, at an altitude of 2,650 m, and is the country’s major ski resort in the winters.

The Major Fascinations at Gulmarg:

Golf Club : Gulmarg boasts of a magnificent grassy golf course that is the world’s highest too! The Golf Club offers short-term memberships to the players.

Trekking : Gulmarg is an excellent base for trekking in the northern Pir Panjal Range. Nanga Parbat can be viewed to the north from several view points, including Khilanmarg, west and over 1,500 feet up the woody hillside from Gulmarg.

Skiing : Gulmarg is undoubtedly the best ski resort in India. Gulmarg is also a good skiing sight for learners. Ski enthusiasts can easily get all required gear and equipments as well as professional ski instructors in Gulmarg, to try out a hand on skiing. The longest ski run in Gulmarg is provide by the Gondola Cable Car Lift, where skiers can swoosh down the slopes from the height of 2, 213m.

Excursions from Gulmarg:

Gulmarg Biosphere Reserves : This is located at a distance of 48-km from Srinagar, to the southwest of Gulmarg. It is famous for storing several rare and endangered species such as the musk deer, and a brilliant and varied fauna.

Alpather Lake : This lake is frozen until mid-June and even later in the year one can see rocks of ice floating in its cold waters.

Cuisine of Kashmir

The Cuisine of Kashmir was primarily influenced by the culture of peoples who arrived with the invasion of India and the Kashmir region by Timur from the area of modern Uzbekistan . The cuisine has also been influenced by other central Asian, Persian, and Afghan cultures.

Wazwan

The traditional Wazwan is considered the height of Kashmiri cuisine.Probably no other cuisine in the world has so many courses. The meal is treated with great respect and the preparation is considered an art. Considerable time and effort are invested into the preparation of the banquet. The traditional number of courses for the Wazwan is thirty-six, though there can be less. The preparartion is considered an art and is traditionally done by a Vasta Waza, or head chef, with the assistance of a court of Wazas, or chefs.

                                

Guests are grouped into fours for the serving of the Wazwan. The meal begins with a ritual washing of hands as a jug and basin called the Tash-t-Nari are passed among the guests. A large serving dish piled high with heaps of rice, decorated and quartered by four seekh kababs, four pieces of methi korma, two tabak maaz, sides of barbecued ribs, one safed murg, one zafrani murg, along with other foods. Certain dishes that are considered a requirement for Wazwa include:

• Methi
• Rista
• Rogan Josh
• Tabak Maaz
• Daniwal Korma
• Aab Gosht
• Martswangan Korma
• Shaame Kebaab
• Kabaab
• Gushtaba

The meal ends with the Gushtaba. Every Kashmiri wishes to organize the royal Wazwan once in his life time for his near and dear ones.

Email: beloved_kashmir@yahoo.com